Out & About
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Dinner at St John, London

St John is a London institution. Founded 20 years ago, these guys pioneered the whole Nose-to-Tail cooking, a philosophy I thoroughly agree with (though don’t practice as often as I’d like). Here you can get heart, tongue, steak- whatever- all cooked in incredibly simple and delicious ways.

It is all about worshipping the animal at St John- and as it was the Pal’s birthday this week, it somehow seemed fitting.

I had never been to St John before, and I will admit the menu can be a little intimidating. It changes daily, so I really had no idea what to expect. Would it be nothing but pig brains?

Turns out there was nothing to worry about. Not a brain in site on the menu- though there were tongues, hearts, and cheeks. And it was all rather good.

The pal and I shared some marrow on toast with a parsley salad- the only regret there being that there is very little of the delicious fatty goodness inside those big bones.

Bone marrow with freshly baked bread and salad

Bone marrow with freshly baked bread and salad

For mains I had a delicious pig’s cheek and dandelion dish, and the Pal had braised pig tongue. I’m not going to pretend I liked the tongue when i tried it, but the Pal did and that’s all that matters.

Pigs Cheek with Dandelion

Pigs Cheek with Dandelion

Dessert was an incredibly rich chocolate and pistachio terrine; the gastronomic equivalent of being slapped in the face by 1970’s icon Divine, but in a good way.

St John is a great bet for those looking for an exciting and delicious meal. It isn’t cheap, but it’s not outrageous either, and the staff are incredibly friendly and helpful. I guess it wasn’t for nothing that I called them a London Institution up at the top.

St John, 26 Saint John Street, London EC1M 4AY

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